Railay is a peninsula on the mainland that behaves like an island, because a wall of limestone cuts it off from the road network entirely. Everything and everyone arrives by longtail boat, there are no cars, and the beaches sit between vertical cliffs that draw climbers from around the world. Across the water, Ao Nang is the ordinary resort town with the restaurants, the transport and the prices. Between them they are one of the best few days on the Andaman coast, and choosing which to sleep on is the whole decision.
How Railay works
No road, no cars. Access is by longtail boat from Ao Nang or Krabi town, a short crossing, with boats leaving when enough passengers have gathered.
Four beaches on a small peninsula, linked by paths that take ten to twenty minutes to walk.
The west beach is the wide one with the sunsets, the swimming and the best hotels.
The east side is where the boats land at low tide and where the cheaper rooms are, and it is mangrove rather than beach.
The far cove, reached past caves and along a path, is the one in the photographs of the whole peninsula.
A viewpoint and a lagoon are reached by a short, steep, muddy scramble up ropes, which is far more of an undertaking than the sign suggests.
Climbing
Railay is a world climbing destination, with hundreds of bolted routes on limestone directly above the beach.
Beginners are genuinely welcome. Established schools run half and full day introductory courses with all equipment, and no previous experience is required.
The rock is sharp and the sun is direct, so morning and late afternoon sessions are standard.
Deep water soloing, climbing without ropes above the sea and dropping in, is offered from boats and is exactly as serious as it sounds.
Even if you never climb, watching people on the walls above the beach is part of the atmosphere here.
Ao Nang
What it is. The mainland resort town facing Railay, with a beach road, a large choice of restaurants and hotels, dive shops and the transport connections.
Who it suits. Anyone wanting value, choice and the ability to leave, plus families who want a supermarket.
The beach is decent rather than spectacular, and the boats leave from it.
Prices are noticeably lower than on Railay.
The compromise of sleeping here and spending days on Railay is entirely reasonable.
Days out
The four islands trip, a longtail circuit of nearby islands and a sandbar, which is the standard day out.
Hong island and the quieter northern bays.
Kayaking through mangroves and into hidden lagoons in the karst.
The tiger cave temple inland, with a very long staircase to a summit view.
Hot springs and emerald pools in the interior, usually combined into one land tour.
Practical notes
Cash matters on Railay, where machines are limited and charge for the privilege.
Boats land in the shallows, so expect to wade with your bag and pack accordingly.
The tide determines which beach the boats can use.
Monkeys on the paths will take food from a bag, and feeding them is how that behaviour continues.
Season is decisive, since the whole place runs on small boats.
Where this fits
For the neighbouring island cluster and its famous bay, an hour by ferry from here, our guide to Phi Phi covers the day trip and the overnight.
For the larger island to the west with the airport and the old town, our Phuket guide covers the other Andaman base.
And for the underlying question of which Thai coast to visit in your month, since the two sides of the country have opposite seasons, our comparison of the Andaman and Gulf islands is the one to read first.
The short version
Sleep on Railay if the carless evening after the day boats leave is what you want, and book early because there are not many rooms. Sleep in Ao Nang if you want choice, value and the ability to move, and take the ten-minute boat across each day. Take a beginner climbing course even if you have never climbed, because this is one of the best places in the world to start. Do the four islands boat day. Carry cash, expect to wade, and cross back to the mainland the night before any onward flight.
